Setting Up for DoubleWeave

I've been trying to learn more about Double Weave for folded cloth -- With some nudges in the right direction from the 4-Shaft Weaving Group on FaceBook,  I got a couple of books from the Public Library by Jennifer Moore, along with a video that's been very helpful.  I really think this the way to go with that color gamp kit I bought.  

My weaving friend Lynda, was encouraging me to learn about color along with the different weave structures, but I think the bigger thing I'll be learning here is the double weave aspect -- and I'll have a blanket / throw we can actually use at the end of it.  Because my loom is too narrow to do the pattern as given, we'd been talking about altering the pattern (shrinking the width, and lengthening it to use the same amount of yarn, or leaving out some of the colors altogether), but I don't think I'd ever wear a scarf with all those colors out of the house.   I know a twill would have been swell, but I'd need an 8-shaft loom for that!  If it makes her feel any better, I worked up samples of 37+ weave structures on the current warp.  Not a color study, but definitely contrasting warp and weft, and showing the range of possibilities on a 4-shaft loom with standard set. 

With the double weave option, I think there will be less translating the pattern as it was written into something I can do on the loom I have.  For instance, I understand that I'll still be able to use the 6-dent reed that's currently in place, and that I'll need to run 4 ends through each slot instead of 2 as would work for a single layer of cloth.  The pattern says to wind a warp with 432 ends, which means I'll need 432 heddles altogether, which translates to 108 heddles per shaft (That's 432 divided by 4 shafts =108). I think I'll count those this wkd to see if I have enough.  I know we took some off for the current warp, setting it up for rug weaving.  
  
As for winding the warp, my husband and I knocked out this no-nonsense very basic spool holder / Lazy Kate, made from scrap wood and nails with the sharp ends ground off (for safety, and making it look less like a medieval torture device) :

In thinking things through, I felt I needed one of these in order to move on to the next step in vwinding the warp for this project.

There's room for 18 spools, since that's what the Shetland Wool Color Gamp Kit calls for.
The bottom row is slightly off-set from the top.  Each pin is 3 inches from the next one in line.

 Once I have the colors in order (How's this?), this little device will help me keep things straight in my mind for the duration of the project.  When you look at it from this angle, the top row (starting with the black spool) simulates the warp strings for the TOP cloth.  The bottom row simulates the warp strings and colors for the BOTTOM layer of cloth.  They will be joined on the right side amid those yellows and mustard colors.

As for winding the warp : Tell me if my thinking is right here :  It can be the same 3 yds in length that is recommended in the pattern.  I understand that I need to put the colors in the order I want them to appear in the final blanket.  But I think I should probably put them in the order that they would appear in the folded cloth--so picture 2 rows, one on top of the other.  Essentially, I'll need to wind the first and last colors together (1 and 18 or that black and blue on the left side, then dark gray and turquiose; then white and sky blue, etc)), and work my way through the color pairings (2 and 17; 3 and 16; etc), until I get to the folded side (which would be on the right side of the loom).

In the first set of heddles on the left, there will be 2 yarns of the first color (weaving to the top 1/2) and 2 yarns of the last color (weaving to the bottom 1/2).  I think that means I can wind 24 ends of each color simultaneously, which will give me 48 ends total for each color pairing.  Then I just work my way along through each color pairing.  If my logic is right here, I might just go ahead and wind the warp for that project -- so that I'm not wasting your time when you're here on simple stuff like that.   I'd rather have your help with tying on, and winding on to help get out tangles and make sure everything is straight and even and tight--with no threading errors. 

I know I'll be stuck with plain weave because the extra shafts will be used up on the 2nd layer of cloth, but the treadling pattern will make it a little more interesting than just walking along ...  I'll have to think about that for a while--but the bead system will help me keep track of where I am at any given point.

I think this can work ...  I need to watch the video again.  Jennifer Moore has a specific way to set up the treadles for the lift plan that seems to make sense.  Different from how I have it now.